Microplastics from fabrics, the role of low cost fashion

Peace in Europe, appeal to Chancellor Olaf Scholz. Petition

4 May 2022

Elena Bosani new president of Égalité onlus

13 May 2022

Published by Sabrina Bergamini on 5 May 2022

Microplastic pollution

There is a general increase of awareness on microplastic pollution, which affects sea and ocean, air and soil and has negative effects on ecosystems, animals and human health, highlights the EEA. Microplastics have been found in the human organism: in lungs, blood, placenta.

Microplastics they can be released directly into the environment or they can result from the degradation of larger pieces of plastic. 6 to 15 million tons of plastic are dispersed into the environment every year, recalls the dossier of the EEA.

Under the action of light solar, wind, wave and other factors, plastic degrades into small fragments known as microplastics, measuring 0,001-5mm, or even nanoplastics, measuring less than 0,001mm.

In addition to fragmentation of plastic waste in smaller particles, then there are intentionally produced microplastics (such as microspheres contained in personal care products, for example) and those that derive from the wear of products or the release of microfibres during washing of fabrics synthetics. The use and washing of fabrics made of synthetic fiber is a recognized source of release of microplastics into the environment. With what dimensions? According to the European Environment Agency and research estimates, more than 14 million tons of microplastics have accumulated on the ocean floors of the world. And it's a quantity that grows every year, causing damage to ecosystems, animals and people.

Microplastics from fabrics, the numbers

About 8% of European microplastics released into the oceans comes from synthetic fabrics (worldwide this figure is estimated between 16% and 35%). In Europe it is estimated that 13.000 tons of textile microfibers, equal to 25 grams per person, are released into the waters every year. Each year between 200.000 and 500.000 tons of microplastics from textiles enter the marine environment of the world.

In the dock there are especially those items of clothing made of synthetic fibers, such as polyester and acrylic. Not only at the level of use, because the dispersion of microfibres and microplastics occurs along the entire textile industry chain, from production to use up to the disposal of textile products as waste.

According to estimates Widespread for World Earth Day, huge quantities of waste characterize the textile sector and every year about 40 million tons of fabrics are sent to landfills or incineration. 60% of all clothing is made up of synthetic fibers such as polyester, a petroleum derivative that contains high levels of microplastics. Washing synthetic clothing releases microplastics and contributes 35% of all ocean microplastic pollution. Not to mention the water footprint of fashion: it is estimated that to produce one t-shirt in cotton you need 3 thousand liters of water. (2)

Microplastics e fast fashion

A systematic review of the European Environment Agency explains that most of the microplastics that come from fabrics are released during the first few washes. Much of the responsibility must then be attributed to fast fashion.

'Consequently, fast fashion represents a particularly high level of microfibre release, as fast fashion garments generally contain a high percentage of synthetic fibers and represent a high percentage of first washes, as they tend to be used only for a short time and wear out quickly'.

It is estimated moreover, a total of between 0,2 and 0,5 million tons of microplastics are poured into the oceans every year from synthetic fabrics.

The impact of microplastics

There is growing concern due to the presence and dispersion of microplastics, as well as their impact on the environment and human health. There is also a lot of uncertainty about the size of this impact but 'a certain degree of chronic exposure to microplastics is unfortunately an integral part of contemporary life ', must recognize the EEA.

Microplastics they reach all living beings and are everywhere. They are ingested by all living organisms, from fish to large marine mammals, terrestrial animals and humans. Microplastic particles are inhaled. Microplastics have been reported in a wide range of foods and beverages, including seafood, drinking water, beer, salt and sugar. In addition to the physical presence of microplastics, the potentially toxic chemicals they contain are of concern. 'High levels of exposure to microplastics are believed to induce inflammatory reactions and toxicity and microplastics can be vectors for the spread of pathogens and microbes. '.

How to act on microplastics? 'It is possible to reduce or prevent the release of microplastics from textiles, for example by implementing sustainable design and manufacturing processes and by adopting measures that control emissions of microplastics during use and by improving disposal and end-of-life treatment.'says the EEA.

Consumer habits e fast fashion

If the microfibers are released mainly in the first washes of new clothes, this means that 'fast fashion, with garments used for a short time and replaced often, represents a high level of microfiber release - explains the EEA - Consequently, changes in consumer shopping behavior are needed along with awareness of the impact new clothing items have on microplastic pollution. This change could be facilitated by more circular business models, which promote reduced consumption and longer use'.

An intervention on washing machinesinstead, it could start from the inclusion of filters to precisely prevent the release of microfibers. In general, multi-level action and three pathways are needed to prevent the release of microplastics from fabrics: sustainable design and production; action of measures to control microplastic emissions during use; better disposal and end-of-life treatment. It is also necessary to do research on innovative production processes and waste treatment technologies that prevent, reduce and capture microplastics throughout the life cycle of fabrics.

The above-mentioned measures to prevent and reduce the unintended release of microplastics from synthetic fibers may involve product design, improvement of manufacturing processes, pre-washing in industrial manufacturing plants, labeling and promotion of innovative materials.

The EU strategies for sustainable textile products

In the circular economy package of the European Commission there is also the EU Strategy for sustainable and circular textile products (3). The shared need is to change course to favor the choice of quality clothes, destined to last, which can be used for longer and reused, at the center of a circular economy that also affects the textile and fashion sectors. In short: combining fashion and sustainability.

Even because, says the European Commission, “on average, every European citizen throws away 11 kg of textile products every year. Around the world, the equivalent of a lorry of textiles is landfilled or incinerated every second. World production of textiles almost doubled between 2000 and 2015 and the consumption of clothing and footwear is expected to increase by 63% by 2030. Parallel to this constant expansion, the negative impacts on resources, water, energy consumption and the climate continue to increase ”.

Sabrina Bergamini